My few days in Tamale so far have been more than I could have ever hoped for. Talking, laughing and learning from the citizens of this city has given me new insight to thoughts and beliefs I had not touched in years. Living abroad has prompted me to reflect not only on the new ideas and experiences I am encountering, but to review and judge my own society and past experiences. My participation in a religious service this past Sunday serves as a physical metaphor for the ability of ceremonies to create unity within a culture and to serve as a vehicle for transcending cultures.
Accepting the invitation to attend liturgy, Erica and I joined Chief Zo-Simli-Naa to her Anglican church. I had never been to an Anglican service before, but since I was raised Catholic I knew there would be many similarities. I was curious to witness the traditions of this religion, but more specifically, the Tamale congregation. We arrived at 10:00am for what would be a three hour service, which is considerably short I am told.
In as many ways as the service was different, it was surprisingly the same. Parts of the service were more traditional, with the use of incense and the gate between the priest and the congregation, and the singing of most prayers. But in the next moment, there was a drum set and a bass guitar and people dancing in the isles. While watching the men and women dance around, I noticed another thing I had not often seen in churches I had attended in the U.S., a real sense of joy and thanksgiving. The dancing and singing was lively and energetic, and the people were smiling! I thought to myself, “now this is the way to celebrate and rejoice!”
Though it was the same act I had performed many times before, the taking of the host represented so much more to me this time. It was the first time I really understood its meaning. By sharing the bread and cup, I became a part of the congregation in some way. Thousands of miles from home, and a simple act of eating and drinking has brought me into the lives of people whom I have never met before. This small, symbolic act is a less personal version of what I have been doing daily in a secular way since I arrived in Tamale. Eating and drinking with strangers, and through the course of that communion, becoming friends. Christianity is irrelevant. The communion practiced in church is just a symbolic way to remember that it is this daily act that unites us to our fellow human beings.
In the middle, all newcomers were asked to come up, introduce themselves and to be blessed by the priest. Though slightly uncomfortable, being welcomed infront of the entire congregation and then individually blessed by the priest was another example of how welcoming and genuine the citizens of Tamale are. With nearly every person I have met here, I have felt a genuine warmth, friendliness and sense of interest that I have yet to discover in the United States or in any of my travels abroad. It reminded me of my work with foreign exchange students at Beloit college. Two German girls repeatedly seemed concerned with the validity of friendships in the United States. At first, I thought I understood what they meant. In the U.S. the term “friend” is carelessly thrown around when one really means “acquaintance.” This leads to false conceptions of relationships when Americans claim to be friends, but lose contact within a matter of days. Now, in Tamale, I am recognizing the shallowness of typical American culture. This is not to say that I have not experienced true friendship in the United States, only that the majority of interactions with new people are incredibly transient. But in Tamale, within the first few meetings, I felt at home here. The cultural focus on greetings ensures a conversation with each person upon every meeting. Our interest in learning Dagbane has created even closer bonds as we develop new ways to relate through language. Most of all, when anyone is in the room, they are included, without fail, and we as guest have been given a sense of importance reserved for those twice our age.
I know that visitors from Tamale have enjoyed their time in Louisville. When I attended a farewell dinner in Louisville for recent guests, they graciously thanked their hosts and Sister Cities for the hospitality they received. But after coming to Tamale, I find it difficult to believe that they met the level of warmth and respect that perpetuates this society.
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